With every trip that I plan and book, there’s usually one part in particular that I look forward to the most. On our voyage to Singapore and Indonesia this summer, our three-night boat tour around the Komodo Islands was it.

Not only was the tour a real highlight of our entire trip, but our short time at sea would end up being probably four of the best days of my life – we spotted wildlife, we swam in turquoise waters, and we left footprints on what is without a doubt one of the most beautiful (and underrated) corners of the world.

After spending a few nights in Bali, we took a short flight from Denpasar to Labuan Bajo on the island of Flores to join the Le Pirate Explorer boat. As a serial planner and organiser, I booked our spot on their four-day-three-night trip over six months in advance, making sure that we had our place on the small catamaran-style boat that only accommodated five couples.

Day one – Rinca and Padar Island

We set sail early in the morning after a quick briefing at the Le Pirate restaurant in Labuan Bajo.

Onboard the boat, we were first allocated our rooms – basic tent-style cabins with a double bed, and fabric walls that zipped open and closed to the ocean view outside. We dropped off our bags and settled into the communal living area underneath the cabins, and met the four other pairs on our tour (three separate couples and two friends), and relaxed while we made our way to our first stop – Rinca.

Getting the chance to see Komodo dragons in their natural habitat was one of the main reasons we wanted to come, and our trek around Rinca did not disappoint. We spotted several dragons before we’d even set off on our walk around the island, which, like the rest of the stops we would come to make, was full of greenery and beauty.

Back on the boat, we sat around the table and chatted over lunch – tempeh burgers for me, and meat alternatives for the carnivores. The meal was plentiful, and not for the first time during the trip, I felt bad for what we didn’t manage to finish.

With an hour until our next stop, our group disbanded, and some of us opted to relax on the beanbags spread out on the deck while others lounged on the hammocks on either side of the catamaran. I sank into my seat and squinted against the Indonesian sunshine at the passing landscape, embracing the warm sun and breeze against my skin. The boat rocked gently against the waves, and as we sailed into the deeper ocean, big splashes of water were brought up onto the deck, followed by laughter from our group as those of us near the edge became drenched.

We arrived at Padar Island in the early evening and started our ascent towards the top of the hill as the sun began its descent into the horizon. Somehow we had made it here before any other tour groups, and in our pairs we sat together overlooking the island, watching the sunset with only each other and the sound of the gentle breeze for company.

Just before darkness came, a few small crowds from other boats had arrived at the viewpoint as we began to make our way back down. But it wasn’t time for us to say goodbye to Padar yet, as our first stop the next morning would be to the beach which could be seen on the other side of the island.

The ocean was rough that evening, and I was grateful to take a sea-sickness tablet from one of the travellers in our group before dinner, having forgotten to bring my own. With full stomachs and weary legs, we retired to our respective rooms soon after, but were unable to catch much sleep during the night as the boat rocked in the strong ocean waves, and as the crew moved us to find safer spots to anchor.

I got up early the next morning feeling no less tired than the night before, but the view from our room more than made up for the feeling. After all, I didn’t come here to sleep…

Day two – snorkelling, and more wildlife spotting

We began our morning in the best way possible – by breathing in the salty ocean air and feeling the sand between our toes. But not just any sand, pink sand, a seemingly impossible colour caused by the breakdown of a red coral.

I took a swim in the already-warm turquoise waters and strolled up and down the length of the shore of Pink Beach. My morning in paradise was only broken slightly when I noticed the remnants of plastic debris that had been washed up onto the sand – a very real and sobering reminder of our impact on the world that even beautiful beaches like this aren’t safe from. I collected as much as I could into my wet bag to take back to the boat, which quickly became filled with plastic bottles, bottle caps, utensils, toothbrushes, containers, and even a small lightbulb.

We gathered for breakfast back on the boat before making our journey to our second stop of the day – Banana Island.

Named after the curve of its shape, we stepped foot on a small sand strip seemingly in the middle of the ocean. The water here was even more clear and green than before, the white-pink sand even softer, and the rolling hills in the distance even more verdant. I walked the length of this small bank smiling to myself and gazing around, wondering just how I’d gotten to stand here – it’s safe to say I found my happy place in Indonesia.

With another small bag of plastic collected, we climbed back on the boat and headed to our next stop.

I’m not proud to admit that I’m a poor swimmer, and being unable to tread water means I rely heavily on a life jacket to keep me afloat. Although the ocean was a lot calmer on that day, being in open water still makes me anxious no matter what.

Our next stop was Manta Point, a spot where you could snorkel with manta rays, something which I was definitely looking forward to doing. The rest of our group had happily jumped into the ocean to try and follow a manta that had been seen below, which left me by myself, afraid to jump off the boat. Arnold, our main supervisor from the crew, kindly offered to take me in our little motorboat – the small vessel used to ferry us from the main catamaran to the shore at each stop – towards the manta ray instead so I didn’t have to jump off or try to swim and catch up with everyone else.

I looked over the edge of the small boat and saw a giant black shadow gliding through the water below, and gulped. ‘Am I not too close?’ I asked. ‘No, it’s OK, they are friendly’, replied Arnold, somewhat reassuringly. I hesitantly dropped myself into the water and saw it there directly beneath me. A huge creature, its mouth open and fins spread out wide, moving effortlessly through the ocean like it was flying.

The rest of our group joined me in the water, and we watched in awe as the manta ray swam away, totally unphased by our presence.

Later that afternoon, we stopped to snorkel at another spot where we were lucky enough to catch sight of our first turtle! Our boat anchored later in between two islands, and we all relaxed as the sun began to set.

Almost to the minute at 6 pm, we started to see some small shadows in the sky – fruit bats in this area fly from one island to the other every morning to feed, and return back at this time every evening. I had expected to see a few dozen, but before long the orange and pink ombre sky overhead was filled with thousands of them, flapping their wings toward their home across the sea.

Dinner that night was not wasted – we ate bowlfuls of pasta and reminisced about our jam-packed day and all the wildlife we’d been able to see.

The ocean was beautifully calm, and without strong winds like the prior evening, we were able to take advantage of the boat’s projector screen and settled in for a movie night at sea. From the available selection, I pushed for a screening of Disney’s Moana which I still stand was the perfect film to watch in our tropical surroundings.

When the film drew to its inevitable happy ending, we headed off to bed with the songs still playing in my head as I drifted off to sleep.

Day 3 – Le Pirate Island

After a restful night’s sleep, we woke up to another beautiful sea view.

We had breakfast on the boat, then made our way to a small island where we took a morning swim, hike, and sunbathed on the beach.

Back on the boat, we made our last journey to Le Pirate Island where we’d be spending our final night of the tour. We thanked the crew for all their hard work, then packed up our bags, ready to transfer onto the island after lunch.

We checked into our new bedrooms, and settled into our beautiful wooden cabins located right on the beach – a little hut with a double bed accessed via a ladder, and two sun loungers underneath. What more do you need?

Having had all of our activities arranged for us the past two days, the pace dropped a little now that we were left to decide for ourselves how to fill our time. Dave and I spent the afternoon kayaking, snorkelling (where we spotted another turtle as well as a baby shark!), and sipping a few cocktails from the beach bar to mark our 10 year anniversary that day – I couldn’t think of a better way to spend it.

For dinner, Vietnamese rolls were served. We shared a grill in the middle of our tables and cooked our own food to our liking before wrapping everything up with rice and dips. This was fun, but it wasn’t the best set up for vegetarians – my selection of vegetable skewers didn’t cook very well, and using the same pan for meat and veggies would have been an issue for those stricter than me. I enjoyed my tempeh though and was happy to at least be accommodated for.

We spent the rest of the night playing board games and spotting little hermit crabs scuttling across the sand, which we tried hard not to step on while making our way to bed. I fell asleep listening to the sound of the ocean waves and tried not to think about leaving tomorrow.

Day 4 – relaxing, and final goodbyes

Nothing beats waking up on the beach.

We ‘checked out’ of our beach huts after breakfast, and later watched in envy as new guests arrived at midday to spend their night on this private island.

We tried to make the most of our remaining time on Le Pirate Island, and spent our last day reading and relaxing on the beach, playing table tennis, and of course, swimming and snorkelling in the clear waters.

But before we knew it, the afternoon came, and it was time to say our last goodbyes. Showered and packed up, we made our way to the pier with our luggage to set sail for the final time back to Labuan Bajo.

I didn’t think about checking my phone once during our four days with Le Pirate, and in our modern-day world, that’s how you know you were somewhere special when you don’t even think about connecting to your real-life back home.

Book your own trip:

  • Our 3N/4D trip cost IDR 9,300,000 / £510 / $670 for our double cabin. Longer and shorter trips are also available.
  • All meals, snacks, and basic drinks (water, tea, coffee) are included. Alcohol and canned drinks are extra.
  • I highly recommend booking early
  • We stayed at the Le Pirate hotel the night before and after our boat trip for IDR 600,000 / £33 per night, including breakfast. They also have a boatel (boat hotel) off the coast of Labuan Bajo!
  • Water is precious on Le Pirate Island and in Labuan Bajo, so don’t waste it
  • The itinerary is dependant on weather and tide conditions, so your trip may not be exactly the same as mine
  • Komodo Island is currently closed to the public, but Rinca remains open to tours like this
  • There is an additional ranger and Komodo National Park fee which is payable on the day of departure that’s not included in the cost of the tour. Allow an additional IDR 1,000,000 each for this and other drinks on board.

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